Sunday, October 17, 2010
Friday, October 15, 2010
Indoor Shuffleboard Dimensions
Courmayeur 15/10/2010
We got home, fortunately the trip was shorter than expected, tiring, but without smoothly. Now a few days rest and then grouped all the images that give the RAI for the making of a film. With SKY, will be a report of 30 ', so our job is not finished. I was asked to give further explanation of the "plaques, wind or swollen, I do so willingly with the help of some photos taken a few meters from our tenda in occasione dell’ultima salita e discesa con gli sci effettuata da Francesco sulla montagna senza nome. Come potrete notare è incredibile come su un pendio con un’inclinazione ridicola, in presenza di neve trasportata dal vento, si possano avere dei distacchi di notevole dimensione al solo passaggio di uno sciatore. In questo caso non ha creato problemi , ma, se tutto ciò fosse avvenuto in cima ad una parete, le dimensione sarebbero state sufficienti per trascinare a valle lo sciatore o l’alpinista con conseguenze sicuramente fatali. Quindi, Occhio!!! alla “Gonfie” e agli accumuli nei sottovento…
A presto.
edmond
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Memory Violation Error In Tally 7.2 Solution
Kathmandù 12-10-2010
Kathmandù 10/12/2010
arrive in Kathmandu destroyed after 9 hours of travel, no time to shower the phone rings, and Miss. Hawley, (87 years) the historical memory of the Himalayas that we want to talk. Appointment to the hotel after an hour, and punctually sprightly, the lady wanted to know the history of the entire expedition, insisting on many details. Despite age, Hawley has been very attentive and informed, rather than a chat was a real interview with a few attempts to put us in difficulty in determining whether, in fact telling the truth, truly a unique experience. Towards the end of our conversation, I took the liberty to offer her tea, she politely refused, saying he had not finished work and had to "see" another expedition ... .. Edmond
Kathmandù 10/12/2010
arrive in Kathmandu destroyed after 9 hours of travel, no time to shower the phone rings, and Miss. Hawley, (87 years) the historical memory of the Himalayas that we want to talk. Appointment to the hotel after an hour, and punctually sprightly, the lady wanted to know the history of the entire expedition, insisting on many details. Despite age, Hawley has been very attentive and informed, rather than a chat was a real interview with a few attempts to put us in difficulty in determining whether, in fact telling the truth, truly a unique experience. Towards the end of our conversation, I took the liberty to offer her tea, she politely refused, saying he had not finished work and had to "see" another expedition ... .. Edmond
Sunday, October 10, 2010
How To Make Robin Costume
ABC (Advanced Base Camp) 5550 mt. 10/10/2010
We've put everything we have been patient, but no one will rise more this year on top of Everest. The fall season has given way to harsh winter temperatures and observed our special, Hornbein is completely frozen. The wind blew all the Hornbein sembra davvero una “patinoir”. Ci vorrebbe una nevicata di neve umida affinché la neve possa attecchire sul quel ghiaccio, cosa assai improbabile, per non dire impossibile di questa stagione viste le temperature. Su quel ghiaccio le lamine dei nostri sci non fanno sufficientemente presa e la discesa diventerebbe un suicidio. Mi è stato detto: “ma perché non salite dalla via normale”?. La salita dalla via normale non l’abbiamo presa in considerazione perché siamo venuti con lo scopo di sciare sull’Everest. La via “normale” oltre ad essere in questo momento anch’essa pericolosa per le valanghe, non si addice alla discesa con gli sci, troppi i tratti rocciosi in cui dovremmo remove skis. Dall'Horbein Couloir climb with crampons we could, with considerable avalanche risk in the upper part, but then, for the descent thing we invent? The Hornbein with crampons without fixed ropes down, it would be madness. In short, against the mountain if the conditions are really becomes un'azzardo, and as professional mountain we can not afford. Who goes to the mountain takes a certain risk factor, part of the game and adventure, there are intermediate conditions in which it is permitted to take risks, but here, the risks are too high and clear, not ignore them would be the height of own right. The news of recent days with two Japanese morti con uno sherpa sul Dhaulagiri (8.167 mt.) per valanga, due sherpa feriti gravemente sotto una valanga sulla via normale del Cho Oyu, (8.2010 mt.) e sempre sul Cho Oyu, ma sul versante sud-est la morte dell’ alpinista trentino Nones, anch’egli per valanga, sono un’importante campanello di allarme che non possiamo ignorare. Torniamo a casa con il rammarico di non aver avuto la possibilità di esprimerci sull’Hornbein, siamo consapevoli che abbiamo fatto il possibile, ma semplicemente non ci è stata a data la chance della vetta. La montagna è stata più forte di noi, ma questo lo si sapeva, non possiamo sfidarla, ma semplicemente sfruttare le opportunità che speravamo di avere. Siamo comunque soddisfatti of how we handled the situation and from time to time opportunities. We have made wise choices change our goals and still make two good "first" absolute, taking home a result. Often it is difficult to give up than to go forward ... we have a major impact on the Himalayas is a source of pride and partly We are heartened by the target missed.
E 'was great, though not always easy to have this direct line to you, fans and friends who have followed. With the satellite photos to send two "tablets" often took 20 minutes of connection is not easy and a lot of bad words, the technology in this field must surely migliorare. Il blog non finisce qui, quando saremo a valle ed avremo un collegamento ad internet decente, potremo arricchire i post con molte foto di miglior qualità, ne abbiamo moltissime. A casa saremo felici di rispondere a tutti i vostri post e magari di approfondire alcuni argomenti.
Grazie a tutti voi per averci seguito con passione.
Edmond, Francesco e Gianluca
Friday, October 8, 2010
How To Get Wax Off My Heater?
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Today will extract the names of 10 winners of free tickets, valid for the next review of Imprò!
Please note the dates on which you can choose to use the ticket:
- Friday, October 15: vs ROMA Imprò CESENA
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Thursday, October 7, 2010
Forced To Smell Her Feet
ABC (Campo base avanzato) 5.550 mt. 07-10-2010
ABC (Campo base avanzato) 5.550 mt. 08-10-2010
L’alpinismo e l’egoismo:
Le spedizione Himalayane e le grandi attese al campo base, sono una della caratteristiche principali di questa attività. Le attese per le buone condizioni della montagna, pauses to rest, have a great opportunity to reflect, which you can not do at home with the frenzy and the pace that life imposes. In these moments we can not think al'egoismo that is inherent in climbing, especially in the Himalayas. The mountaineer and of itself a great selfish, like maybe the great navigators solitary, they do not hesitate to leave home with relatives, wives and children to indulge their passions, emotions in other activities that you can hardly have . With these few lines I want to thank our loved ones, who at first agreed that we engage in this challenging adventure and then were able to wait patiently e spesso ansia, magari passando notti insonni in attesa di notizie rassicuranti che spesso arrivavano tardi a sedare le comprensibili preoccupazioni. In particolare Elio e Signora che nei primi giorni sono stati in ansia per la salute di Gianluca e Beatrice per l’aiuto (lei sa perché)... Pia e Silvano che spesso hanno atteso pazientemente notizie da Francesco, che non molto spesso arrivavano. Ha i miei genitori già un po’ anziani, che anche questa volta come tante altre volte anche se a malincuore, mi hanno assecondato in questa mia ultima “follia”..Le mie sorelline sempre premurose ad affettuose con il fratellone. Infine alla mia adorata Elena. Subito la spedizione è stata motivo di numerosi liti (comprensibile), ma poi, was crucial to the success of the expedition. He solved a lot of problems, has at any time of day or night, on Sundays, with determination, pragmatism and the "savoir faire" which has innate. Our marriage after this experience is strengthened and consolidated.
Good! Thanks again to all of you. Edmond
ABC (Advanced Base Camp) 5550 mt. 07/10/2010
We had anticipated that we would go back in to share something new, and it did. We have left aside the Hornbein and his ice, we are dedicated to mountains children, for nameless but we had a particular interest, especially with virgins and ski slopes, in the end we are here for skiing. In recent days, Frank had made me see a nameless mountain, 6,910 meters high. which lies between the Changtse (7.583mt.) Chanzheng and Peak (6997 mt.) and we decided it would be our next destination. Tuesday morning in the company of our faithful Sherpa Pasan, in five hours of walking we went to place a field to 6,150 meters at the foot of Changtze. Wednesday, good hours Francesco skis with skins crossed the glacier and in two hours was the crevasse of the mountain without a name. I this time I followed a few days ago suffering from a strong back pain that will not let me sleep and I only tremendously. I preferred to follow Francis from the field with the camera and the camera to document the event. In less than four hours in solo and alpine style, Francis grew up on the edge of the great "meringue" of ice protruding from the top threatening. At this point, having wisely decided not to continue, in fact, there was also a tricky downwind accumulation (swelling) of unstable snow flurry. At this point he put on your skis and fell in the very first time the 600 meters in altitude with a constant slope of 50 degrees !!!!! of this mountain. I believe that no one in the Himalayas have skied on these levels pendenza e per un tratto così lungo; sicuramente rappresenta la discesa tecnicamente più impegnativa che sia mai stata fatta a queste quote. Bravissimo Francesco!!!
Un grande risultato, ci vuole coraggio, grande determinazione e concentrazione; sciare su quelle pendenze con poco ossigeno, con la fatica nelle gambe della salita richiede una un incredibile controllo psicofisico che solo grandi atleti hanno, una caduta i quelli condizioni risulterebbe sicuramente fatale. Gli alpinisti Himalayani delle vie “normali” una volta raggiunta la cima, in discesa, stanchi e stremati agganciano il moschettoni alle corde fisse ed assicurano la loro vita, anche se inciampano sono al sicuro. Se scendi con gli sci, sei senza rete di sicurezza…non You know its the swing .... I knew
degrees of technical qualities of Francis, in a few years, although very young has accumulated extensive experience on large walls north of the Alps. When I suggested this adventure has accepted with enthusiasm, despite not having experience in the Himalayas has been shown to be able to move in this environment, with modesty, intelligence and great clarity. As Head of the Company Guide to Courmayeur Alpine guides are happy with the choices I made and have a guide as among our Francis.
Tashi Delek!
Edmond
PS: Photos coming 
ABC (Campo base avanzato) 5.550 mt. 08-10-2010
L’alpinismo e l’egoismo:
Le spedizione Himalayane e le grandi attese al campo base, sono una della caratteristiche principali di questa attività. Le attese per le buone condizioni della montagna, pauses to rest, have a great opportunity to reflect, which you can not do at home with the frenzy and the pace that life imposes. In these moments we can not think al'egoismo that is inherent in climbing, especially in the Himalayas. The mountaineer and of itself a great selfish, like maybe the great navigators solitary, they do not hesitate to leave home with relatives, wives and children to indulge their passions, emotions in other activities that you can hardly have . With these few lines I want to thank our loved ones, who at first agreed that we engage in this challenging adventure and then were able to wait patiently e spesso ansia, magari passando notti insonni in attesa di notizie rassicuranti che spesso arrivavano tardi a sedare le comprensibili preoccupazioni. In particolare Elio e Signora che nei primi giorni sono stati in ansia per la salute di Gianluca e Beatrice per l’aiuto (lei sa perché)... Pia e Silvano che spesso hanno atteso pazientemente notizie da Francesco, che non molto spesso arrivavano. Ha i miei genitori già un po’ anziani, che anche questa volta come tante altre volte anche se a malincuore, mi hanno assecondato in questa mia ultima “follia”..Le mie sorelline sempre premurose ad affettuose con il fratellone. Infine alla mia adorata Elena. Subito la spedizione è stata motivo di numerosi liti (comprensibile), ma poi, was crucial to the success of the expedition. He solved a lot of problems, has at any time of day or night, on Sundays, with determination, pragmatism and the "savoir faire" which has innate. Our marriage after this experience is strengthened and consolidated.
Good! Thanks again to all of you. Edmond
ABC (Advanced Base Camp) 5550 mt. 07/10/2010
We had anticipated that we would go back in to share something new, and it did. We have left aside the Hornbein and his ice, we are dedicated to mountains children, for nameless but we had a particular interest, especially with virgins and ski slopes, in the end we are here for skiing. In recent days, Frank had made me see a nameless mountain, 6,910 meters high. which lies between the Changtse (7.583mt.) Chanzheng and Peak (6997 mt.) and we decided it would be our next destination. Tuesday morning in the company of our faithful Sherpa Pasan, in five hours of walking we went to place a field to 6,150 meters at the foot of Changtze. Wednesday, good hours Francesco skis with skins crossed the glacier and in two hours was the crevasse of the mountain without a name. I this time I followed a few days ago suffering from a strong back pain that will not let me sleep and I only tremendously. I preferred to follow Francis from the field with the camera and the camera to document the event. In less than four hours in solo and alpine style, Francis grew up on the edge of the great "meringue" of ice protruding from the top threatening. At this point, having wisely decided not to continue, in fact, there was also a tricky downwind accumulation (swelling) of unstable snow flurry. At this point he put on your skis and fell in the very first time the 600 meters in altitude with a constant slope of 50 degrees !!!!! of this mountain. I believe that no one in the Himalayas have skied on these levels pendenza e per un tratto così lungo; sicuramente rappresenta la discesa tecnicamente più impegnativa che sia mai stata fatta a queste quote. Bravissimo Francesco!!!
Un grande risultato, ci vuole coraggio, grande determinazione e concentrazione; sciare su quelle pendenze con poco ossigeno, con la fatica nelle gambe della salita richiede una un incredibile controllo psicofisico che solo grandi atleti hanno, una caduta i quelli condizioni risulterebbe sicuramente fatale. Gli alpinisti Himalayani delle vie “normali” una volta raggiunta la cima, in discesa, stanchi e stremati agganciano il moschettoni alle corde fisse ed assicurano la loro vita, anche se inciampano sono al sicuro. Se scendi con gli sci, sei senza rete di sicurezza…non You know its the swing .... I knew
degrees of technical qualities of Francis, in a few years, although very young has accumulated extensive experience on large walls north of the Alps. When I suggested this adventure has accepted with enthusiasm, despite not having experience in the Himalayas has been shown to be able to move in this environment, with modesty, intelligence and great clarity. As Head of the Company Guide to Courmayeur Alpine guides are happy with the choices I made and have a guide as among our Francis.
Tashi Delek!
Edmond
PS: Photos coming
Monday, October 4, 2010
Corrections Civil Service Exam Pa
ABC (Campo base avanzato) 5.550 mt. 04-10-2010
ABC (Advanced Base Camp) 5550 mt. 04/10/2010
day break at the base camp to rearrange ideas. The spring wind and the cold is always intense. Tomorrow we move and will be a surprise, we have sharpened the blades.
soon
Tashi Delek!
Edmond
PS. The photos show the summit partners. 
ABC (Advanced Base Camp) 5550 mt. 04/10/2010
day break at the base camp to rearrange ideas. The spring wind and the cold is always intense. Tomorrow we move and will be a surprise, we have sharpened the blades.
soon
Tashi Delek!
Edmond
PS. The photos show the summit partners.
When Implantation Calculator
Video introduction Performing Euthyphro
Euthyphro - the secret player
A production of The'atro
monitored and coordinated by Ettore Nicoletti
Video shot and edited by Reporter Gimmi
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Church Anniversary Cake Ideas
News & FAN FUND: PASS THE WORD, THE SHIPPING! THANK YOU! Legal
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Selection for Expedition of 2011-2012
If you want to participate in the expedition to Antarctica, send an email to julius.fabbri @ istruzione.it with a short CV ( max 10 lines) containing personal data, self-certification of good health and you will be contacted. The expedition will be difficult but adventurous and countless surprises. With time spent, Julius Locksmiths
Getting Catch With A Dog In An Airplane
Excerpt of a letter dated 17 / 9 sent to me by prof. Ricci Carlo Alberto (Siena)
Buy Blue Corn Chips Sydney
Euthyphro Euthyphro
This week begins our courses:
For those who will start Wednesday ( or has not yet decided ) remember that the first lesson is free not cost you anything, just the desire to have fun, and if you can not wait for this Wednesday for the remaining Wednesdays in October. As usual, more details to the courses page improvisation
add that our teaching has also chosen this year's Spring Theatre, and we are proud to remember that this year their show is Microscopera billboard to ' Arena del Sole in Bologna ! The teacher will follow both courses is Antonio Vulpio , good luck to him, and all those that begin: have fun!
you there! 
This week begins our courses:
- part of the course Monday for the second and third year (and Amateur)
- Wednesday begins the first year
For those who will start Wednesday ( or has not yet decided ) remember that the first lesson is free not cost you anything, just the desire to have fun, and if you can not wait for this Wednesday for the remaining Wednesdays in October. As usual, more details to the courses page improvisation
add that our teaching has also chosen this year's Spring Theatre, and we are proud to remember that this year their show is Microscopera billboard to ' Arena del Sole in Bologna ! The teacher will follow both courses is Antonio Vulpio , good luck to him, and all those that begin: have fun!
you there!
Crib Tent Uneven Sides
ABC (Campo base avanzato) 5.550 mt. 03-10-2010
ABC (Advanced Base Camp) 5550 mt. 10/03/2010
Cold and blustering wind, we had to reinforce the anchorage of the tents. Yesterday, the shower curtain (not much used since the cold and the wind) was torn and we had to chase sulla pietraia. Nei gironi scorsi quando siamo tornati al C1, ero preoccupato, non ero sicuro che avremmo ritrovato tutte e due le tende visto il vento; fortunatamente tutto era a posto, ma, dopo uno sguardo più attento in effetti una tenda era squarciata sulla sommità. Non era il solito strappo da vento ma abbiamo capito che erano stati i gracchi alpini, avevano creato un varco con il becco per poter accedere alle nostre provviste, fortunatamente la tenda a doppio strato di copertura ha resistito, o meglio, i corvi hanno desistito. Al k2 nel 1998 i corvi ci distrussero un campo riuscendo addirittura ad aprire le scatolette di tonno con il becco.
Ieri Francesco non sapendo cosa fare… ha camminato per 7 ore sul ghiacciaio centrale di Rongbuk verso the normal route to Everest base camp. E 'was particularly impressed by the amount of trash that is along the path; impossible to lose the trail, just follow cans and waste paper and arrive at your destination. For the ascent to the summit of the Olympic torch in 2008 the Chinese were responsible for coverage with antennas for mobile ice which leads to C. Base shame that after two years with both boosters of solar panels are abandoned on the glacier, a truly depressing sight. At this point, our resolve to clean up the path to the CB of the "normal, looks like a glass of water to the ocean. We have already started to CB durations stops to climb the moraine and a certain amount of trash was collected, but here to do a thorough cleaning it would take fifty people for a few weeks. We still have available a number of empty plastic bins that we will fill it with everything you will find around, that's all we can do.
Here the situation has not changed and does not improve, the wind does not appear to decrease the cold is even more intense and this puts a strain on our strength ...
Tashi Delek!
Edmond 
ABC (Advanced Base Camp) 5550 mt. 10/03/2010
Cold and blustering wind, we had to reinforce the anchorage of the tents. Yesterday, the shower curtain (not much used since the cold and the wind) was torn and we had to chase sulla pietraia. Nei gironi scorsi quando siamo tornati al C1, ero preoccupato, non ero sicuro che avremmo ritrovato tutte e due le tende visto il vento; fortunatamente tutto era a posto, ma, dopo uno sguardo più attento in effetti una tenda era squarciata sulla sommità. Non era il solito strappo da vento ma abbiamo capito che erano stati i gracchi alpini, avevano creato un varco con il becco per poter accedere alle nostre provviste, fortunatamente la tenda a doppio strato di copertura ha resistito, o meglio, i corvi hanno desistito. Al k2 nel 1998 i corvi ci distrussero un campo riuscendo addirittura ad aprire le scatolette di tonno con il becco.
Ieri Francesco non sapendo cosa fare… ha camminato per 7 ore sul ghiacciaio centrale di Rongbuk verso the normal route to Everest base camp. E 'was particularly impressed by the amount of trash that is along the path; impossible to lose the trail, just follow cans and waste paper and arrive at your destination. For the ascent to the summit of the Olympic torch in 2008 the Chinese were responsible for coverage with antennas for mobile ice which leads to C. Base shame that after two years with both boosters of solar panels are abandoned on the glacier, a truly depressing sight. At this point, our resolve to clean up the path to the CB of the "normal, looks like a glass of water to the ocean. We have already started to CB durations stops to climb the moraine and a certain amount of trash was collected, but here to do a thorough cleaning it would take fifty people for a few weeks. We still have available a number of empty plastic bins that we will fill it with everything you will find around, that's all we can do.
Here the situation has not changed and does not improve, the wind does not appear to decrease the cold is even more intense and this puts a strain on our strength ...
Tashi Delek!
Edmond
Saturday, October 2, 2010
Thick Cathedral Setting Ring
TRAINING COURSE FOR STUDENTS & SHIPPING INTRODUCTORY
TRAINING COURSE FOR STUDENTS & SHIPPING INTRODUCTORY October to December 2010.
Please note that by the end of October (approximately) will be held near Prague in the training course for pupils to carry out activities in Antarctica in December 2011.
To prepare the reception of de students, will take place in mid-December 2010, a consignment of visit to Nelson Island.
For information, write to julius.fabbri @ istruzione.it
oppure a juliusfabbri@hotmail.com
cell. 339.3524669
Grazie, Julius
Mostra tutto 
TRAINING COURSE FOR STUDENTS & SHIPPING INTRODUCTORY October to December 2010.
Please note that by the end of October (approximately) will be held near Prague in the training course for pupils to carry out activities in Antarctica in December 2011.
To prepare the reception of de students, will take place in mid-December 2010, a consignment of visit to Nelson Island.
For information, write to julius.fabbri @ istruzione.it
oppure a juliusfabbri@hotmail.com
cell. 339.3524669
Grazie, Julius
Mostra tutto
Bending A Spiral Handrail
La Vallée Peak 6.535 mt. 29/30-09-2010
The Valley Peak 6,535 meters. 29/30-09-2010
We came to ski and even if the "mother goddess of the earth" (Everest) at this time does not want us, we somehow we managed to bring home a major achievement. When we got here and saw for the first time the north face of Everest, the conditions dell'Hornbein couloir to us as the Basques, felt good. After a week of small but continuous snowfall the afternoon and night which prevented us from approaching the mountain, is at last the longed sun. With the sun but also came a strong wind at a height that it completely changed the conditions of Everest, the wind at high altitude has created enormous Snow accumulations of breath resulting in great danger of avalanches. Instead the bottom dell'Hornbein Couloir, the wind has completely removed the snow, have surfaced rocks, snow and ice on the surface is very definitely not the ski area.
Meanwhile, given the conditions we could not stay doing nothing and decided to turn our attention to some beautiful mountains surrounding Mount Everest. In front of the Lingtren 6749 mt. is the group of Guangming Peak 6533 mt., some of these peaks are inviolate, they have a name but only the share. We have observed carefully, we found a beautiful appearance, but also to exposure (south-east, not affected by the accumulation di neve ventata) sciabile. Giovedì 30 settembre, l’unica giornata senza vento di buon ora, ma con un freddo pungente (-20), dal nostro c1 in circa 3 ore abbiamo raggiunto sci ai piedi con le pelli di foca, la base della montagna. Dopo un breve consulto abbiamo individuato l’itinerario di salita. Francesco, come sempre è stato davanti; la salita si è svolta su pendenze di 45-50° con alcuni passaggi di misto, un breve cresta finale in circa 4 ore e trenta ci ha condotto in vetta. Debbo dire che la giornata era particolarmente bella e dalla cima abbiamo potuto godere di un panorama a 360° da mozzafiato. Fatte le foto di rito, è iniziata la discesa che si è svolta sullo stesso itinerario; subito la neve era crostosa e difficile, man a mano che scendevamo la pendenza aumentava ma migliorava anche la neve. Una discesa con pendenza sempre molto sostenuta, che ha richiesto una grande concentrazione vista anche la stanchezza. In totale la salita in vetta, la discesa e il rientro al campo1 hanno richiesto 10 ore. Sia per Francesco che per me, era la prima volta che giungevamo sulla cima di una montagna inviolata e senza nome, debbo dire che l’emozione è stata grande e con Francesco ci siamo abbracciati a lungo. Abbiamo pensato di chiamarla La Vallée Peak 6.535 mt. un omaggio a l’amata Petite Patrie, quando scenderemo a Rongbuk ci attiveremo per certificare il tutto. Ieri invece avremmo voluto replicare con la montagna gemella vicina ma le condizioni erano nuovamente cambiate, a strong wind prevented us from sleep, there has also suggested to go down to the valley to base camp.
A small but significant success that gives us the strength and determination to wait and hope that conditions will improve dell'Horbein.
soon.
Edmond & Francis 
The Valley Peak 6,535 meters. 29/30-09-2010
We came to ski and even if the "mother goddess of the earth" (Everest) at this time does not want us, we somehow we managed to bring home a major achievement. When we got here and saw for the first time the north face of Everest, the conditions dell'Hornbein couloir to us as the Basques, felt good. After a week of small but continuous snowfall the afternoon and night which prevented us from approaching the mountain, is at last the longed sun. With the sun but also came a strong wind at a height that it completely changed the conditions of Everest, the wind at high altitude has created enormous Snow accumulations of breath resulting in great danger of avalanches. Instead the bottom dell'Hornbein Couloir, the wind has completely removed the snow, have surfaced rocks, snow and ice on the surface is very definitely not the ski area.
Meanwhile, given the conditions we could not stay doing nothing and decided to turn our attention to some beautiful mountains surrounding Mount Everest. In front of the Lingtren 6749 mt. is the group of Guangming Peak 6533 mt., some of these peaks are inviolate, they have a name but only the share. We have observed carefully, we found a beautiful appearance, but also to exposure (south-east, not affected by the accumulation di neve ventata) sciabile. Giovedì 30 settembre, l’unica giornata senza vento di buon ora, ma con un freddo pungente (-20), dal nostro c1 in circa 3 ore abbiamo raggiunto sci ai piedi con le pelli di foca, la base della montagna. Dopo un breve consulto abbiamo individuato l’itinerario di salita. Francesco, come sempre è stato davanti; la salita si è svolta su pendenze di 45-50° con alcuni passaggi di misto, un breve cresta finale in circa 4 ore e trenta ci ha condotto in vetta. Debbo dire che la giornata era particolarmente bella e dalla cima abbiamo potuto godere di un panorama a 360° da mozzafiato. Fatte le foto di rito, è iniziata la discesa che si è svolta sullo stesso itinerario; subito la neve era crostosa e difficile, man a mano che scendevamo la pendenza aumentava ma migliorava anche la neve. Una discesa con pendenza sempre molto sostenuta, che ha richiesto una grande concentrazione vista anche la stanchezza. In totale la salita in vetta, la discesa e il rientro al campo1 hanno richiesto 10 ore. Sia per Francesco che per me, era la prima volta che giungevamo sulla cima di una montagna inviolata e senza nome, debbo dire che l’emozione è stata grande e con Francesco ci siamo abbracciati a lungo. Abbiamo pensato di chiamarla La Vallée Peak 6.535 mt. un omaggio a l’amata Petite Patrie, quando scenderemo a Rongbuk ci attiveremo per certificare il tutto. Ieri invece avremmo voluto replicare con la montagna gemella vicina ma le condizioni erano nuovamente cambiate, a strong wind prevented us from sleep, there has also suggested to go down to the valley to base camp.
A small but significant success that gives us the strength and determination to wait and hope that conditions will improve dell'Horbein.
soon.
Edmond & Francis
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