ABC (Campo base avanzato) 5.550 mt. 08-10-2010
L’alpinismo e l’egoismo:
Le spedizione Himalayane e le grandi attese al campo base, sono una della caratteristiche principali di questa attività. Le attese per le buone condizioni della montagna, pauses to rest, have a great opportunity to reflect, which you can not do at home with the frenzy and the pace that life imposes. In these moments we can not think al'egoismo that is inherent in climbing, especially in the Himalayas. The mountaineer and of itself a great selfish, like maybe the great navigators solitary, they do not hesitate to leave home with relatives, wives and children to indulge their passions, emotions in other activities that you can hardly have . With these few lines I want to thank our loved ones, who at first agreed that we engage in this challenging adventure and then were able to wait patiently e spesso ansia, magari passando notti insonni in attesa di notizie rassicuranti che spesso arrivavano tardi a sedare le comprensibili preoccupazioni. In particolare Elio e Signora che nei primi giorni sono stati in ansia per la salute di Gianluca e Beatrice per l’aiuto (lei sa perché)... Pia e Silvano che spesso hanno atteso pazientemente notizie da Francesco, che non molto spesso arrivavano. Ha i miei genitori già un po’ anziani, che anche questa volta come tante altre volte anche se a malincuore, mi hanno assecondato in questa mia ultima “follia”..Le mie sorelline sempre premurose ad affettuose con il fratellone. Infine alla mia adorata Elena. Subito la spedizione è stata motivo di numerosi liti (comprensibile), ma poi, was crucial to the success of the expedition. He solved a lot of problems, has at any time of day or night, on Sundays, with determination, pragmatism and the "savoir faire" which has innate. Our marriage after this experience is strengthened and consolidated.
Good! Thanks again to all of you. Edmond
ABC (Advanced Base Camp) 5550 mt. 07/10/2010
We had anticipated that we would go back in to share something new, and it did. We have left aside the Hornbein and his ice, we are dedicated to mountains children, for nameless but we had a particular interest, especially with virgins and ski slopes, in the end we are here for skiing. In recent days, Frank had made me see a nameless mountain, 6,910 meters high. which lies between the Changtse (7.583mt.) Chanzheng and Peak (6997 mt.) and we decided it would be our next destination. Tuesday morning in the company of our faithful Sherpa Pasan, in five hours of walking we went to place a field to 6,150 meters at the foot of Changtze. Wednesday, good hours Francesco skis with skins crossed the glacier and in two hours was the crevasse of the mountain without a name. I this time I followed a few days ago suffering from a strong back pain that will not let me sleep and I only tremendously. I preferred to follow Francis from the field with the camera and the camera to document the event. In less than four hours in solo and alpine style, Francis grew up on the edge of the great "meringue" of ice protruding from the top threatening. At this point, having wisely decided not to continue, in fact, there was also a tricky downwind accumulation (swelling) of unstable snow flurry. At this point he put on your skis and fell in the very first time the 600 meters in altitude with a constant slope of 50 degrees !!!!! of this mountain. I believe that no one in the Himalayas have skied on these levels pendenza e per un tratto così lungo; sicuramente rappresenta la discesa tecnicamente più impegnativa che sia mai stata fatta a queste quote. Bravissimo Francesco!!!
Un grande risultato, ci vuole coraggio, grande determinazione e concentrazione; sciare su quelle pendenze con poco ossigeno, con la fatica nelle gambe della salita richiede una un incredibile controllo psicofisico che solo grandi atleti hanno, una caduta i quelli condizioni risulterebbe sicuramente fatale. Gli alpinisti Himalayani delle vie “normali” una volta raggiunta la cima, in discesa, stanchi e stremati agganciano il moschettoni alle corde fisse ed assicurano la loro vita, anche se inciampano sono al sicuro. Se scendi con gli sci, sei senza rete di sicurezza…non You know its the swing .... I knew
degrees of technical qualities of Francis, in a few years, although very young has accumulated extensive experience on large walls north of the Alps. When I suggested this adventure has accepted with enthusiasm, despite not having experience in the Himalayas has been shown to be able to move in this environment, with modesty, intelligence and great clarity. As Head of the Company Guide to Courmayeur Alpine guides are happy with the choices I made and have a guide as among our Francis.
Tashi Delek!
Edmond
PS: Photos coming
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